Weeks 3, 4 and 5

Grenoble–Montpellier, Montpellier–Ennetbaden–Biarritz, Biarritz–Bilbo–Burgos

So, it's been quite a long time since we wrote the last English summary. Here it is.

The following days we cruised through the flatter than flat Camarque. First, this was a change we really welcomed, after the many hills we had to climb before. But as the day moved on, it got a wee bit boring. To which might be added that the wind was not exactly in our favour – the headwind got stronger and stronger in the course of the day, reaching its peak in the evening, and we got more and more exhausted.

We spent the night on a huge campsite in St.-Marie-de-la-Mer.

Then we were looking forward to a nice afternoon in Montpellier, but as so often, the ride into the city took us longer than expected, and it was kind of hard to find accomodation. But the Tourist Office proved to be very helpful, and we could stay one night just beside the Opera House in a small and simple hotel.

For the second night we had to change to another hotel though. And this proved to be fatal. In the morning after our second night in Montpellier our bike had disappeared. And hey, just remember: this is a 30-something kilo vehicle, three metres long and not so easy to ride . . . Poor guys who stole that thing!

The even poorer guys were we, of course, as we were facing a big challenge: decide if and how we should go on with our journey. The loss of the recumbent tandem was one thing – clearly annoying and sad. The whole venture of our journey weighed stronger though. After checking out several options, we finally decided to get our bikes from Switzerland, sending the luggage forward to the West Coast of France by post. Both of which cost us a fortune.

It must be mentioned though: We thoroughly enjoyed our stay in Montpellier, we felt almost like locals after the four days we spent there. In the old part of the city we found some cool bars – and after the second time we were greeted and treated like regulars. So, no bad feelings at all, really!

It was kind of strange to be back home for the weekend, like a holiday from the holiday.

And the journey, although on the lengthy side, was ok too. Those TGVs . . . I mean, they are really a bit faster than our trains back home. Let alone, than we ourselves on the bike. Another thing: Coffee time in Paris can ruin your travelling budget: 6.50 € for a capuccino – Swiss prices are a bargain!

The train took us to Biarritz in the French Basque country. Some British flair can be felt in the streets of this surfing resort at the Atlantic – youngsters carrying their surfing equipment and elderly people supposedly residing in one of the elegant hotels at the seafront having a coffee in the same bar.

We continued our trip along the Atlantic coast. And this was a good choice. The four days, from Biarritz to Donositia (San Sebastian), to Lekeitio, to Bilbo (Bilbao) proved to be gorgeous. But while we expected gentle rides along the coast, the coastal route made us feel our heavy load at the back of our bikes – Dagmar on her touring bike, Didi on his single recumbent. We were faced with a steady up and down, sometimes on the harmless side, sometimes fxxxxxx steep. But the views we had from the top of the hills down to the sea were more than just a compensation.

Bilbo, like most of the towns or cities we have been to so far, is worth a journey. People are laid-back, outgoing and uncomplicated – young and old people sit in front of the bars, if all chairs are taken, on the pavement, having a cerveza, a vino and a chat.

And we were taken aback by the lovely buildings – amongst others the Guggenheim Museum of course. Again, we stayed in a lovely pension/guesthouse at the verge of the centre of the city, in the Pension Santimami.

Now, we are in Burgos, and again, the route proved to be worth every metre. Through many hills, most of which we didn't even have to climb, and in the end, a heavy tailwind blew us into Burgos, where we stay for two nights before making our way to Portugal.

Promise, that it won't take so long till the next English entry in this blog. So, stay with us. In the meantime, you can try and learn some German ;-)